DAY ELEVEN 26 OCTOBER BAZTAN TO SAN SEBASTIAN

Looking across the harbour to France.

After a very relaxing, though busy week it was time to pack up, clean up and get up to the task of leaving the Baztan valley. We headed over to say goodbye to Belen and Carlos at the Posada. It is a very odd feeling leaving here. Don’t want to go but want to continue our journey! Belen understood! We gassed up at Simply and headed for San Sebastian. We never go directly there, we always stop at Fuentarrabia , or, Hondarribia as it is now known. We found a spot to stop down close to the port and soaked up the sunshine for a little while. Lots of people out walking with and without dogs and I suspect lunch will follow.

We decided to bypass San Seb and head out to Orio to our favorite fish restaurant. It was packed, not a chance of a seat or lunch! No fish today so we found somewhere around the corner, it was a beautiful day and we had hoped to sit outside but settled for a table next to an open window!  Paul had a chuleta which was very tough, I had Merluza in salsa verde which was quite good. We walked down to the river and enjoyed some more sunshine. We had brought the kids here 6 years ago and they had really enjoyed watching the kids diving into the river for a few coins but there were no kids today. Only one fishing boat moored and the tide was high.

Same view in the Harbour All Spain on the right into the mountains.

Before we headed back to book for Sunday then we followed Carmen Garmin’s instructions back to San Seb. Well! She took us up over Mont Igueldo! Fair to say it was a glorious drive with mountains and valleys, cyclists and crazies driving like maniacs on narrow hairpin roads! Then we came over the top and saw the Bay of Biscay in all its glory. The view was amazing with mountains on one side and straight ahead the beautiful blue sea. Suffice it to say we survived and after a few burps found The Hotel de Londres. This is not the San Seb of our youth, there have been a few changes. We were met by a doorman who very kindly helped us unload, parked the car and then brought our bags up to the room! Service indeed. The room is not large but very comfortable and we have a small, very small balcony overlooking the bay.

San Seb City Hall Nighttime with red lights

We are on the 6^th floor overlooking Ondarreta Beach. The bay curves around before us with Jesu Cristo blessing us from a mountain on the right, the little island in the middle of the bay before us and Mont Igueldo across from us! There are still loads of people on the beach enjoying the Indian summer. It will get cold soon and everyone is storing up the vitamin D! 

We sat out on the promenade to people watch for a while and let me tell you that was some fine people watching! A bride and groom and wedding party came out to have pictures taken, scooters, bicycles and walkers enjoying the fine afternoon. The Town House is just across the park and there was some sort of gathering there for a while. A very busy evening so far and we haven’t even ventured ever to the old town!

La Concha Promenade near city hall in front of Hotel Londres

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We headed over to the Parte Vieja (old town) past the Town Hall which was lit up with red lights and ventured in. The place is packed! Every bar is busting at the seams. We muscled our way in (Spanish style) next to the bar for a drink and a few pintxos (tapas to the uninitiated). Nowhere to sit, so you eat standing up and give the stink eye to those lingering too long, or those with 2 strollers and a dozen children all crying! Eventually they leave, you sit and are then subjected to the same stink eye you bestowed on others! It is all very good natured and part of the fun! There are people out in the street with glasses in hand, talking laughing and socializing. We ended up in the old Plaza, which was once the bullring during fiestas. It is old and wonderful. There were tables available so we finally sat and enjoyed the atmosphere for some more people watching with tinto de Verano.

At about 10 or 10.30 we decided to call it a day and moseyed back to the hotel. The tide is out, way out and the waves are crashing. It is quite soothing.